Showing posts with label illinois. Show all posts
Showing posts with label illinois. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Benton, IL: Beatles Southern Illinois Connection


From St. Louis Post-Dispatch - Thursday May 8, 1997
Reported by Andrew Bedell


To pull up at the curb and look at the outside of 113 McCann, you wouldn't think it was particularly interesting. Just a tidy 1940s-style bungalow set on a whole street of tidy 1940s-style bungalows. But cross the threshold and you've fallen back to 1963, into a home where someone is indulging a major Beatles fixation.

Three Benton couples got together and bought Louise Harrison Caldwell's former home in 1995, after Beatles historian and fan Robert Bartel guided an all-out effort to save it from certain demolition.

Today, the house where the "Quiet Beatle" slept is A Hard Days Nite B&B, operated by the investors: Cindy and Scott Rice, Daryl and Jim Chady and Connie and Dorothy Schultz.

Connie Schultz, who lives across the street from the house with his wife, Dorothy, says the rehab of the house has taken a "good part of two years." Virtually everything in the home is circa 1963: the furniture, the kitchen, the light fixtures, a virtually new console hi-fi.

Even without all the Beatles memorabilia, you could experience a major flashback to your parents' or grandparents' Kennedy-era decor. A visitor half expects meat loaf, canned peas and a Jell-O mold to magically appear on the kitchen table.

It could be an interesting place to stay, for the kitschy aspect alone, but most people visit to soak up the George Harrison/Beatles aura. Sleep in the room where George slept, watch TV in the living room where George watched his favorite show, "Hootenanny." You can even sit on the couch where George reportedly composed the melody to "Daytripper."

Many items from Bob Bartel's extensive mop-top collection decorate the home, including autographed pictures, records, posters, books and Beatleboots. Heady stuff for Beatles fans.

The four bedrooms all have private, new baths that rival those found in nicer hotels. There's even a TV with a VCR in each room.

"We've had people from all over stay here," says Schultz. "Our first guests were one of those Beatles look-alike bands." The rates are what you would pay in other B&Bs, typically $ 60 to $ 65 a night, with the continental breakfast.

A Hard Days Nite B&B is approximately a two-hour drive from St. Louis. Take Interstate 64 east to Interstate 57 south near Mt. Vernon, Ill. The Benton exit is approximately 15 miles south on Interstate 57. If you need directions once in Benton, Connie warns that people don't know the B&B as A Hard Days Nite. He says, "ask for the Beatles house." Call (618) 438-2328 for more information.

See more here: http://www.rickresource.com/rrp/youvereallygot.html

Monday, March 16, 2009

Effingham, IL: Effingham, Effingham, Effingham

Green Mtn, Effingham, NH

For the majority of my undergrad years, I worked at my Uncle Ace's Sunoco station in Effingham, IL. The station had a small footprint just a few hundred feet from the two interstates that merged through town. Every day, thousands of travelers headed all directions to myriad destinations hopped on and off the exit for "grub and gas". Sometimes you could get a feeling for what Mark Twain must have felt watching barges go up and down the Mississippi in his childhood home of Hannibal, MO.

Now the Sunoco wasn't exactly the busiest gas station in town. This made it the perfect job for a commuting college student; which is to say it left plenty of time to complete my studies. In the summer however, the evening shift seemed to last forever. Remembering my father's early lectures on idle hands, I would find myself engaged in all sorts of activities to pass the time. After completing just about every productive task, I soon found myself drawn to the POS (point of sale) display for Rand McNally US Atlases.

Inside the atlas, a whole world of names and places revealed themselves to me. Remember this is before the internet - Bill Gates was busy dabbling with Altair computers at this time! One evening, after determining that Tennessee bordered more states than any other state (8), I asked myself: Is there only one Effingham in the United States? Much to my surprise, not only were we not alone in our unique combo name of a slang swear word / pork product moniker - there were several!

Here were the results of my non Google aided research:

Effingham, IL
Effingham, KS
Effingham GA
Effingham, SC
Effingham Lake, Ont
Effingham Inlet, Vancouver Island
and, drum roll....all hugging the Maine border in New Hampshire
Effingham Falls, NH
Effingham, NH
Center Effingham, NH
South Effingham, NH


Did I miss any? Let me know!



Sunday, March 15, 2009

Champaign, IL


Solid Terrain Model of Illinois

The winner of Best Poster at the 2003 Illinois GIS Association fall conference and the Beckman Institute for Advance Science and Technology at the University of Illinois Image of the Week was Illinois Topography in 3D. Instead of being a GIS map printed on paper, it consisted of a color plaster model of Illinois terrain held to an exhibit board by Velcro.

This terrain model output is the next step beyond onscreen spinning 3D models, and is reminiscent of the papier-mâché models many of us saw in museums as children. This new generation of map models; however, are produced at dramatic savings in time and cost, and can be much more accurate because they are generated directly from Digital Elevation Models.

The truly exciting thing about using this medium is that it makes the terrain come alive. This map seemed to be telling the story of the glaciers which advanced and retreated repeatedly across Illinois, scraping and smearing the landforms they covered. The terrain heights were scaled to appear thirty times higher than they really are.

The map was created in collaboration with the Imaging Technology Group at the Beckman Institute for Advanced Science and Technology at the University of Illinois using the newly installed ZCorp Z406 printer.

There were three major steps involved in creating the model; build the computer model, print it, and clean and treat it. First, build the computer model, set the extent and vertical exaggeration, and export to VRML format. A limitation in the exported VRML file required additional processing of the image files used to color the model.

Second, the computer file is sent to the printer. The Z406 printer builds the model from the bottom up in layers of plaster powder on an 8in x 10in platform that retracts into the printer as the model gets taller. It squirts a colored adhesive in each layer of powder until the full height of the model is printed.

Finally, at the completion of printing the model is surrounded by loose plaster powder. The excess powder is removed by vacuum then finely cleaned with an airbrush. The model is then immersed in wax to add strength and bring out the vibrancy of the colors. (More info)

Photography courtesy of Benjamin Grosser, Beckman Institute for Advance Science and Technology at the University of Illinois

Golconda, IL: Southern Illinois history lost on Cherokee Trail of Tears


By JON MUSGRAVE
American Weekend

GOLCONDA, Ill. — Nearly 9,000 Cherokees passed through Southern Illinois between November, 1838, and January, 1839, on their fateful Trail of Tears as the government forced them to abandoned their homes in the Great Smokies to go west to Oklahoma.

Very little of the history of the Cherokee's time in Southern Illinois remains. The one set of notes compiled by researchers in the 1930s known to have existed disappeared from the Marion Carnegie Library years ago when the basement flooded and materials were quickly being moved from the water.

The Cherokees crossed the Ohio River into Illinois at Golconda. Their trek took them westward on the 19th Century version of what's now Route 146. They went through Vienna and Jonesboro and crossed the Mississippi at two different ferries. One was immediately west of Jonesboro at Willard Landing and the other was to the southwest opposite Bainbridge, Mo. Today the Trail of Tears National Historic Trail auto route enters Southern Illinois on the ferry at Cave-in-Rock, turns west onto Route 146 north of the city and continues westward until it crosses the Mississippi at Cape Girardeau.

There is generally two types of sources for information about the trail. One came from contemporary sources when the trail occurred. Probably the best source for information about Southern Illinois was the diary of Rev. John S. Butrick, a missionary who traveled with the Cherokees. The other general source is local family histories. From these we get the story of the Buel House in Golconda and the pumpkin pies, the Cherokees at Bridges Tavern and Wayside Store in Pleasant Grove and the story of Priscilla and the hollyhocks.

The notes missing from the Marion Carnegie Library were not the only copies of the notes that were originally made. They were just the only copy where anybody knew what happened to them. The notes were made by a husband and wife team with the last name Mulcaster. In the early 1930s they traveled along the Trail of Tears and interviewed survivors and people along the trail who might remember stories about the Cherokees passing through.

Historians know the Mulcasters picked up stories in Southern Illinois, because correspondence between them and Southern Illinois Normal University Professor George W. Smith can still be found in special collections at Morris Library. The only problem is that the postcards that refer to Bridges Tavern and the local traditions recorded there, don't include the typed notes the Mulcasters promised to send to Smith.

In the case of Bridges Tavern which was located along Route 146 in Pleasant Grove between West Vienna and Mount Pleasant, at least one of the stories was printed in the Vienna Times later in 1933 or early 1934.

The Cherokees' trek across Southern Illinois was not a pleasant one. They were treated badly and they were stuck here waiting for the ice flows to stop down the Mississippi. The Cherokees traveled in 13 contingents to Oklahoma. One went by river, three took a southern route and nine traveled across Illinois. Each contingents was set up to take 1,000 people, all except the 13th, which was smaller.

Butrick crossed the Ohio on Dec. 15, 1838, he didn't see the Mississippi River until Jan. 25. Even then, it took three more weeks to get all the people in his contingent crossed. From the time the first contingent crossed the Ohio in November to the last part of Butrick's group in February, The Cherokees spent three months in Southern Illinois. According to Butrick's diary, by Dec. 29, 1838, the detachments were spread out across the region. "One detachment stopped at the Ohio River, two at the Mississippi, one four miles this side, one 16 miles this side, one 18 miles, and one 13 miles behind us. In all these detachments, comprising about 8,000 souls, there is now a vast amount of sickness, and many deaths," wrote Butrick who himself was suffering from fever and a cough.

Golconda legends
Two stories about the Cherokees in Golconda have filtered down to the present. An unfavorable view of Golconda comes from Butrick. A nicer story is told through family tradition.
The Buel Family told the story of their ancestor Sarah (Jones) Buel who moved to Golconda on Sept. 2, 1836. Two years later the Cherokees passed through Golconda. "My great-great-grandmother was acookin' pumpkin an' keepin' an eye on her baby when she heard a strange noise outside. Before she knew it, the front door popped open and there stood two Cherokee Indian braves just alookin' at her. Those poor Indians couldn't tell her that they were hungry because they didn't speak English," recalled In Buel Richards in the 1980s. "They had smelled the pumpkin cookin' as they passed by, but my grandmother had no way of knowin' that. Finally, she understood what they wanted, and those Indians were mighty thankful when she gave them some of the cooked pumpkin. I 'spect she was just as thankful when they left," she added.
Butrick's account was more negative. He started his account with the crossing of the Ohio River at about 10 a.m. under pleasant weather and still winds. "As we were now passing out of a slave state into a free, we reflected on the pleasure of landing where all were in a measure equal and free. But we had scarcely landed when we were met with volleys of oaths from every quarter," Butrick wrote. "On going up from the boats into the village, called Golconda, it seemed to be made up chiefly of groceries, and little boys in the streets had already learned to lisp the infernal language. I almost longed to be back in the still, quiet towns of Kentucky," he added.
Prior to the Great Awakening of religious revivals in the 1840s, Southern Illinois was like most areas on the frontier with groceries (what taverns today were called) far outnumbering churches.
Although no major calamity affected Butrick's detachment, he mentioned in his diary problems other detachments had including two murders of Cherokees by local residents and extortion attempts.

While his entries were mostly negative, either because of local reactions to the Cherokees or his own failing health, Butrick did have a few good things to write about. The day after arriving in Illinois, he wrote that he had the opportunity to explain the Cherokee's plight to a group of Golconda residents who had come out to the camps. A few weeks later he asked God's blessing for a kind wagon maker and his family.

Johnson-Union county line
With the exception of taking three weeks to cross the Mississippi, Butrick's group's longest stay was in an area about 25 miles east of the Mississippi which would put it in the Pleasant Grove to Mount Pleasant area. At Pleasant Grove was John Bridges' Tavern and Wayside Store. The tavern was a large two-story dog-trot log cabin which stood until the 1940s when it burned. The store was a separate log cabin located behind the tavern or inn. The store had a thick door with a number of nails driven into to prevent Indians, or local thieves, from breaking in and stealing the whiskey. The door still survives to this day in a private collection.

According to the grand-nephew of John Bridges, Lewis Stanley Beggs, who died in 1934, his mother who lived with Bridges recalled the hundreds of Indians walk past the house and how eager they were to buy "fire water" at the tavern.

Other stories that the Mulcasters collected implied that the Cherokees are also bought and traded for foodstuffs at the tavern and store. In the Vienna Times article that quoted Beggs, it also told one way young Cherokees would earn money along the trail. "A favorite scheme to raise money... was in his craftiness in the use of the bow and arrow. He would approach the white emigrants and place a coin in the split end of a pole, step back so many paces and offer the coin if he did not hit it in the first show, otherwise he was to receive a coin from the emigrant," read the article. If Golconda was a disappointment for Butrick, he had better things to write about Jonesboro. He was still disappointed to see so many groceries (modern taverns), but he was impressed by the neatness of the village.

Priscilla and the hollyhocks
Besides Butrick's favorable impression of Jonesboro, at least one other positive story has been remembered from the Cherokees passing through the village and camping two miles to the west on Dutch Creek. That was the legend of the slave Priscilla and the hollyhocks. The late SIU professor and historian John W. Allen wrote the most complete story of Basil Silkwood and Priscilla. Silkwood was an innkeeper on the old Shawneetown to Kaskaskia Trail where it went through Mulkeytown in Franklin County. Allen wrote that Silkwood and his wife were "evidentially a kindly people. That is evidenced by the fact that, having no children of their own, they, over a period of years, furnished homes to 16 orphaned children.

In 1837, Silkwood traveled in the South and at one point visited a plantation in North Carolina near the Great Smokies. During that extended stay, he got to know some of the plantation slaves particularly the young house servants. One of which was a 11- or 12-year-old girl named Priscilla who was a quadroon, or one-fourth Black.

According to Allen, Priscilla's "beauty and cheerfulness" attracted Silkwood's attention.
"He particularly enjoyed seeing her and the other slave children as they played on the flower-decked grounds about the plantation home and its slave cabins. The little slave girl also came to know 'Marse' Silkwood'," Allen wrote.

Shortly after Silkwood returned to Illinois, the plantation owner died and his property, including Priscilla and the other slaves, were sold at auction. A Cherokee chief purchased Priscilla.
"Before leaving the plantation, where she had played with the other slave children and been happy, Priscilla gathered a quantity of hollyhock seeds and carried them along with her to the strange new home," Allen wrote.

There she planted the seeds. When her new Cherokee owner was forced to move the following year, she gathered hollyhock seeds again and took them with her.
Priscilla followed the Cherokees on their long trek. While passing through Jonesboro, fate intervened. "It is at this place that Basil Silkwood again enters the story. Having business in the town of Jonesboro, Illinois he had gone there on a December day in 1838. Standing in front of the Willard Hotel, he noted a passing child about 12 or 13 years old. She appeared strangely familiar. The child likewise appeared to recognize him," Allen wrote.

While the wagon train continued their passing through Jonesboro, Priscilla backtracked and passed Silkwood again. "Are you 'Marse' Silkwood?" Allen wrote she said. After realizing who it was Silkwood talked to her and found out her story. "Full of sympathy for the child in her plight, he secured a conveyance and drove at once to the tent o the Cherokee Chief on Dutch Creek. Silkwood was not long in coming to terms with the Indian and paid for Priscilla, it is said, a $1,000 in gold," Allen wrote Silkwood then took Priscilla to his inn at Mulkeytown and freed and adopted her into his family. She outlived both Silkwood and his wife. A member of the Mulkeytown Christian Church for many years she was buried in the Silkwood family plot beside Silkwood and his wife.

Today throughout Southern Illinois are small hollyhocks of an unusual red color that came from the Silkwood Inn. known as Priscilla Hollyhocks, these are the from the seeds Priscilla carried with her on the Trail of Tears.

Mason, IL: James Newton Matthews: The Prairie Poet

If you are from Effingham County, Illinois and you don't know who James Newton Matthews (1852-1910) was, shame, shame. Born near Mason, IL, Matthews was the very first student to attend the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign when it opened in 1868. Matthews studied literature and medicine before graduating with honors in 1872. Matthews worked as a country doctor and published multiple volumes of poetry for which he became known as the "Poet of the Prairie." In 1910, Matthews died of a heart attack after walking more than five miles through a snowstorm to treat a patient. Today there is a scholarship in his name at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign.

In his "Lute of Life", published posthumously in 1911, Matthews follows the style of fellow Midwestern poet, James Whitcomb Riley in his prose. Most notably, Matthews wrote "The Old Country Road".

The Old Country Road

Where did it come from, where did it go?
That was the question that puzzled us so,
As we waded the dust of the highway that flowed,
By the farm, like a river-the old country road.

We stood with the hair sticking up through the crown,
Of our hats, as the people went up and went down,
And we wished in our hearts, as our eyes fairly glowed,
We could find where it came from - the old country road.

We remember the peddler who came with his pack,
Adown the old highway, and never went back.
And we wondered what things he had seen as he strode
From some fabulous place up the old country road.

We remember the stage-driver's look of delight,
And the crack of his whip as he whirred into sight,
And we thought we could read in each glance he bestowed,
A tale of strange life up the old country road.

The movers came by like a ship in full sail,
With a rudder behind in the shape of a pail -
With a rollicking crew, and a cow that was towed
With a rope on her horns, down the old country road.

And the gypsies - how well we remember the week,
They camped by the old covered bridge on the creek -
How the neighbors quit work, and the crops were unhoed,
Till the wagons drove off down the old country road.

Oh, the top of the hill was the end of the world,
And the dust of the summer that over it curled,
Was the curtain that hid from our sight the abode
Of the fairies that lived up the old country road.

The old country road! I can see it still flow
Down the hill of my dreams, as it did long ago,
And I wish even now I could lay off my load,
And rest by the side of the old country road.

A little bit of lore surrounds Dr. Matthews that some may find interesting. While it is well documented that Matthews was good friends with James Whitcomb Riley (Indiana author and writer of the Riley Reader - a competitor to the famous McCuffey Reader that found its way into every one room schoolhouse in America) Matthews was also an acquaintance of Mark Twain. While I have never seen it, there is purported to be a photo of Twain in Mason at the "wishing well" downtown.

My interest in Dr. Matthews reaches back into my youth. My grandmother was born in 1908 and was delivered by Dr. Matthews in Mason, IL. Sadly, his dilapidating home, just north of Mason, was demolished two years ago with only the property owners mourning the loss. They had tried to find someone interested in saving the home, to no avail. Another bit of history lost to the ages.